Cleaning, changing chains/sprockets, adjusting chain tension

WARNING!

If You don’t have sufficient mechanical knowledge, experience and proper tools, we strongly recommend, that You have these operations done by Your selling dealer or at Your local motorcycle service center! Making mistake during the disassembly or assembly of the electric system will void the warranty and may cause a hazardous situation, resulting in fire, severe injury or death and damage to property.
For safety reasons it is strongly recommended to leave the battery discharged before handling any component of the motorcycle's electrical system!
Do not let the battery to stay fully discharged longer than neccessary, as it may have a negative impact on its capacity. Charge the battery after each ride.
For greater durability almost all KUBERG chains do NOT use a removable chain master link, therefore the chain change includes removing the motor. KUBERG does not recommend splitting the chain in half while changing it with a new one because of its subsequently lowered durability and a mistake, that can be done very easily.

NOTE:
A proper cleaning and subsequent maintenance of your KUBERG motorcycle will ensure a more enjoyable ownership and experience from riding and can drastically prolong the lifespan of many parts, mainly the chain and the battery. You can wash your KUBERG motorcycle with a low-pressure water hose with clean water and a soft sponge or cloth. While cleaning the motorcycle, inspect all the motorcycle’s components visually.

CAUTION!

You can remove the chain guard before washing, but do not disassemble the motorcycle in any other way. Ranger has front chain cover directly mounted into the motor and if this cover is removed, water can get into the motor! Bolt in all bolts and tighten them just slightly for the water NOT get into the motor during cleaning!
Pressure washing is not permitted!
Do not use any engine cleaners, solvents or detergents with added salt, as they often contain phosphates, which can damage the paint and electronics.
Prevent contact of water with electrical parts of the motorcycle, especially the charge port, controller, battery, motor and accelerator.
After cleaning measure the chain using the chain wear indicator (type 219H) to decide, whether You need to change it. Do not wait with the chain change for the last possible moment - better sooner than later. If you don’t change the chain in time and let it prolong above the recommended limit, such chain may cause sprockets to wear out extensively, so their change will be required altogether with the next chain change.

Table of contents:

Cleaning the motorcycle, changing the chains and sprockets
Chainging the chains without disassembling the motorcycle

1. Cleaning the motorcycle, changing the chains and sprockets

Follow these steps to clean the motorcycle and check both chains and all sprockets:

Required tools:

brush with hard plastic bristles
soft cloth
brake disc cleaner
219H chain wear indicator
219H chain tension indicator
cutting pliers
thin-ended flat screwdriver
needle-nose pliers
sprocket puller
hammer
wooden block
15mm socket wrench bit
hex wrench #10
open wrench #24
hex wrench #4
black insulating tape
sliding gauge
cardboard
threadlock with medium strength (blue)
threadlock with high strength (green)

Required parts:

Ranger: Sprocket 16T (only if damaged)
Ranger: Retaining ring for motor sprocket (only if damaged)
Ranger: Central double sprocket with bearings (only if damaged)
Ranger: Sprocket 90T, 7 holes (only if damaged)
Ranger: Primary roller chain 16T/36T (only if worn beyond recommended limit or damaged)
Ranger: Secondary roller chain 25T/90T (only if worn beyond recommended limit or damaged)

Make sure, that the magnetic kill switch is in OFF position (magnet NOT attached) and the battery state of charge is very low.
Place the motorcycle on a solid and level surface of a mounting stand, so that both wheels are off the ground.
Using the hex wrench #4 loosen and remove 3 bolts, holding the primary chain guard. Each bolt has its own spacer under the chain guard.
Remove the chain guard and uncover the primary chain, then bolt all 3 bolts with their spacers back into the motor and using the hex wrench #4 tighten them just slightly for the water NOT get into the motor during cleaning.
Manually clean any dirt from the rear wheel, swingarm, both chains and all 3 sprocket. A brush with hard plastic bristles and a soft cloth will be very useful here.
Clean the motorcycle and let all the parts dry off completely, especially the chain. You can speed up this process by hand-spinning the wheels and using a soft cloth.
Clean brake calipers with a soft cloth and both sides of brake discs with a suitable brake disc cleaner.
Inspect both sprockets, chain and spring-loaded chain tensioner for any damage.
Measure the chain’s wear using a 219H chain wear indicator.

CAUTION!
Do not wait with the chain change for the last possible moment - better sooner than later. If you don’t change the chain in time and let it prolong above the recommended limit, such chain may cause sprockets to wear out extensively, so their change will be required altogether with the next chain change.

If the chain does NOT need to be changed, skip steps #10 - 31 and go to the step #32 to check/set the chain tension.
Using the hex wrench #10 and the open wrench #24 loosen and remove the rear axle nut. Don’t remove the rear axle yet.
Using the open wrench #10 loosen both rear wheel tensioners almost entirely for the rear wheel to be able to move forward about 0.5“ (1.25 cm).
Slowly spin the rear wheel and gently pull the chain to the outer side of the sprocket. The chain should slip sideways without much effort.
Slowly remove the rear axle, spacers and washers on both sides.
Carefully remove the rear wheel from the swingarm. From this point on do not push the rear brake lever, until the assembly is complete.

CAUTION!
Be aware, that removing the rear wheel will affect the positon of the motorcycle’s center of gravity on the mounting stand.

Follow these steps to change the rear wheel sprocket:
If the rear sprocket is damaged or worn, using the hex wrench #4 loosen and remove all 7 bolts, holding the rear sprocket from the rear wheel hub.
Install the new rear sprocket, apply a small amount of threadlock on each new bolt and tighten them alternately to the rear hub (18 - 20 Nm).

Follow these steps to change the motor sprocket:
If the motor sprocket is damaged or worn, using a thin-ended flat screwdriver or needle-nose pliers carefully remove the motor sprocket clip. Clean any debris or gunk from the groove in the axle where the clip sits and pull the sprocket from the motor by hand. If the sprocket can NOT be detached by hand, heat it to 50 - 70 °C and use a suitable sprocket puller for this size of a sprocket.
Apply a small amount of grease to the axle, which will help the new sprocket slide onto the axle more easily. If the new sprocket is difficult to install just by hand, consider heating it to 50 - 70 °C to expand slightly.

CAUTION!
• Be carefull and use gloves when heating and handling hot components to avoid burns or damage.
• Ensure, that the sprocket is aligned correctly throught the entire process.
• Do NOT use an iron hammer directly onto the new motor sprocket, as it can easily damage the sprocket and the motor axle. Use a small wooden block with a 10 - 12 mm hole in it to soften the hammer impacts and apply pressure evenly around the sprocket until the axle begins to protrude through the centre.
If You have access to a hydraulic press or large bench vice, using a cutting pliers carefully cut the shrinking tube from each of the 4 motor cables (3 phase cables and one sensor cable) and disconnect all cables.
Support the motor from below with a slim cardboard and using the hex wrench #4 (or Torx wrench #T30) loosen and remove all the 6 bolts, holding the motor in the frame.
Slowly and carefully remove the motor from the frame and put it into the hydraulic vice.
Place the heated sprocket onto the lubricated axle and use the vice to slowly apply pressure to the face of the sprocket. Gradually increase pressure, until the axle is close to protrude through the centre of the sprocket.

CAUTION!
• Be carefull and use gloves when heating and handling hot components to avoid burns or damage.
• Ensure, that the sprocket is aligned correctly throught the entire process.
Place a 15mm socket wrench bit between the motor sprocket and the vice to continue pushing the sprocket into its final position.
When the installation of the motor sprocket is finished, use the needle-nose pliers to carefully reinstall the sprocket clip. The clip is made from spring steel and should deform a bit around the axle before snapping into the designated groove.
Double-check the alignment of the sprocket and ensure, that it rotates freely without any obstructions. Do NOT install the motor back into the frame yet.

Follow these steps to change the double sprocket:
If the double sprocket is damaged or worn, using the hex wrench #10 loosen and remove the right pivot bolt from the rear swingarm (on the double sprocket side).
Remove the double sprocket including both chains from the frame.
Install the new double sprocket with both chains on corresponding positions.
Apply a small ammount of threadlock with high strength (green) on the right pivot bolt, reinstall it into the swing arm and using the hex wrench #10 tighten it (58 - 60 Nm).

Follow these steps to reinstall all parts into the frame:
Carefully reinstall the motor into the frame, load the primary chain onto the motor sprocket, install the 3 shorter motor bolts and using the hex wrench #4 (or Torx wrench #30) tighten them just enough for the motor to still be able to move up and down.
Reconnect all 4 motor connectors - red to red, black to black, blue to blue and white to white. Use shrinking tube or black insulating tape to insulate them.
With loosened motor bolts and by moving the motor up or down adjust the primary chain tension. Continuously check the chain tension by hand or by a chain tension indicator and set the correct chain tension. Then using the hex wrench #4 tighten the 3 motor bolts (8 - 10 Nm).

WARNING!
Proper chain tension and straight chain line are important for its lifespan and rider safety and can also prolong the riding time. Do not tighten the chain too much - if the chain is overtightened, it will be loud, it will wear out quicker and also shorten riding time. If the chain is too loose, it may fall off the rear sprocket and cause an accident. To be absolutely sure, that the chain tension is set correctly, use the 219H chain tension indicator.
Check, that the rear hub spacer is coaxial with both bearings and insert the rear wheel and all spacers carefully into the swingarm. The brake disc must slide easily and gently between brake pads. Then slowly slide the axle into the rear hub from the left side.
Install the axle nut, but do NOT tighten it yet.

CAUTION!
Be aware, that removing the rear wheel will affect the positon of the motorcycle’s center of gravity on the mounting stand.
Push the rear wheel forward, slowly spin it by hand and load the chain onto the sprocket.
Using the wrench #10 slowly and alternately tighten both rear wheel tensioners, while still maintaining a straight position of the rear wheel relative to the shock absorber, which will also keep the chain line straight for the chain to move correctly and safely. During tightening the tensioners it’s not necessary, but during their loosening regularly gently push the rear wheel forward, for both tensioners to stay in contact with the rear axle. Set the correct chain tension.

WARNING!
Proper chain tension and straight chain line are important for its lifespan and rider safety and can also prolong the riding time. Do not tighten the chain too much - if the chain is overtightened, it will be loud, it will wear out quicker and also shorten riding time. If the chain is too loose, it may fall off the rear sprocket and cause an accident. To be absolutely sure, that the chain tension is set correctly, use the 219H chain tension indicator.
Using the hex wrench #10 and the open wrench #24 tighten the rear axle nut (68 - 70 Nm).
Check, whether the whole braking surface of the rear brake pads is in contact with the rear brake disc, when the rear brake lever is pushed. If not, using the hex wrench #5 loosen 2 side bolts, holding the rear brake caliper adapter on the swingarm, and move the rear brake caliper forward or backward to increase the braking surface to its maximum.
Spin the rear wheel to ensure it is centered and spins freely. If not, follow the brake adjustment instructions in the Ranger manual.
While hand-spinning the rear wheel, lubricate both chains from above in their lower area with an appropriate off-road motorcycle chain lubricant. Wait a minute for a lubricant to dry off, then remove excess lubricant from the chain with a soft cloth.

WARNING!
Prevent contact of the lubricant with the tire, brake calipers and discs - it would have a major negative impact on the braking force! It probably won’t be sufficient to brush the brake pads with sandpaper and very often new brake pads are required.
Reinstall the primary chain cover and its 3 longer bolts and spacers and using the hex wrench #4 tighten them (8 - 10 Nm).
Double check, that all bolts and nuts are properly tightened.

2. Chainging the chains without disassembling the motorcycle

If You just want to change both chains by splitting them (not recommended), skip steps #12 - 31 and follow this method instead:

Required tools:

grinder
chain splitter with rivetting adapter
sliding gauge

Required parts:

Grind off one secondary chain pin, so it’s completely flush and only the friction is holding the pin in.
Repeat the step above for the primary chain.
Use a chain splitter to split both old chains.
Repeat the steps #1 - 3 for the new KUBERG Ranger primary and secondary chain, which come in one piece, and remove 2 adjacent pins on the wider chain link.
Install the new chain and connect its free ends with the lubricated rivet master link (sold separately).
Use a chain riveter to fasten the rivet master links on the new chains.
Using the digital caliper make sure, that the rivet master link width is the same as the width of any other link on the chain. Use a chain riveter again if necessary.
Check, that the rivet master link pins are secured firmly, so the chains can NOT self loose during ride.
Follow steps #32 up to the end (see above).

WARNING!
The rivet master link must rotate freely on the chain, otherwise it can lock the rear wheel and cause an accident.

If Your motorcycle is under warranty, please register it on our website, if You have not already done so:
https://www.kuberg.com/en/bike-registration

If the problem persists, please contact your dealer or KUBERG customer service (support@kuberg.com). For the fastest possible resolution please send:

VIN of your motorcycle (it is stamped on the right side of the steering column).
Detailed information on actions taken so far, a few photos and preferably a video.

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Cleaning, changing chains/sprockets, adjusting chain tension

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